Frequently Asked Questions

By design the basic components of a communication system are the microphone, amplifier and speaker(s). The microphone picks up the sound of your voice while the amplifier amplifies it to the speakers. The problem with this type of basic configuration is that the microphone picks up ambient noises and then amplifies them. The result: wind, road and bike noise volumes higher than natural levels, which is far worse than the noise before amplification.

Many systems try to overcome this problem by adding a volume control to the configuration. Sounds good to the uninformed, but a volume control alone will simply result in increased overall volume, which is not good if the system has ambient noise within it. A volume control only has real value if the system technology is advanced enough to eliminate the ambient noise from the system, which no other system except Autocom has accomplished.

When researching a system make sure to measure the system as a whole as a system is not successful unless the entire system works. A system that works for music, or a system whose intercom seems to work fine, but whose performance declines when adding bike-to-bike is not a well-designed system. The basic fact is that you need a complete package of technologies for the system to actually be a "system".

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To compare the differences between Autocom Systems, click the 'Products' button in the header bar. This will bring you to 'Comparisons', which outlines the key differences between Autocom Systems. This chart can be printed at the bottom of the chart.

Once you have decided which system suits your needs click 'Configure Your System Now' at the bottom of the header bar for our automated system assembly tool. Back to top

Autocom Systems are generally sold as base kits that include everything needed for a rider system with a portable music source and cellular phone. Each rider can then expand his or her system to meet their specific needs including a choice of GPS, radar detector, alternate music source, bike-to-bike transceiver, passenger and/or power alternatives.

To configure a system using our website use the System Configurator, which will allow you to fill in system options to configure your system. This will allow you to configure your system and will advise you of options that you have for each of your selections.

You always have the additional options of contacting us directly at 888-851-4327, via the Contact button on the website header bar, or by contacting your local stocking dealer.

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Each unit has been designed with lead lengths to allow the unit to be mounted at the rear of the bike under the passenger section of the seat if you choose to hardwire the unit to your bike. Each of our new units also have the options to be remote mounted in a tank bag or other luggage  as a portable or via a quick disconnect power lead.

This give you the flexibility to mount the unit almost anywhere that is convenient for you as long as the location is not directly exposed to the weather (additional leads may be required depending on your choice of mounting location).

How do you decide if the location is protected well enough? If riding in the rain the location where the unit will rest is not wet, the location is good.

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Autocom units are water-resistant by design, but they are not waterproof. Why? All electronics create heat, which is why your computer has a cooling fan and your television case is so well vented.
These allow hot air to exit the unit before condensation forms, which is why it is important that the unit be able to breath and is, therefore, not watertight.

Autocom has taken additional steps to protect each unit including coating the circuit boards, utilizing tough injection-molded cases that unlike metal casings will not allow moisture to condense, and engineering with tight tolerances to make sure that stop gap assembly techinques (e.g. sealing openings with epoxy/mastic or potting (filling the entire space with mastic)) are not required.

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There are two types of Autocom Systems. The first can be powered from a 9-volt battery and optionally powered from a 12-volt power supply for maximum flexibility. The second is a 12-volt only design that powers from a 12-volt system.

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Tip: When using 9-volt batteries be sure to use a quality alkaline battery to ensure the best possible life out of the battery.

Portable systems will power on and off when a headset is attached or detached to/from the rider headset lead. This lead is the longest lead out of the control unit. Battery life will vary from upwards of 18 hours for communications alone to roughly 6-8 hours with music, depending on the type of music and music volume.

Bike powered units are usually bike mounted as well. However, if you require a system that is bike powered, but carried in a tank bag or other luggage, the Active-PLUS has an optional Quick Disconnect Power Lead that is also convenient when multiple bike-use is required. [The Super Pro AVi can be upgraded to the Quick Disconnect Power Lead prior to shipping.]

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Can you ground to the frame or to a shared ground? Yes, but consider this — it is no easier than grounding to the battery, and while it may be a good ground today, it may not be tomorrow. This second point leaves the door open for aggravation in the form of "I didn't have noise yesterday but I do today" down the road. Do yourself a favor, ground to the battery. It is as easy as any other option and the only foolproof ground option available. Back to top

Autocom Systems are professional-grade, true noise-canceling communication systems. Performance is most comparable to aviation and military electronics, and not to other motorsports communication systems.

This brings up two questions: Why? What does this mean to the rider?

Why? As any experienced rider would tell you there have been systems for years that promised the moon and delivered…well, lets just say they never left the planet. The truth is there are many still today. It was not until Autocom set a new course based on real technology that true performance was established in motorsports communications. You can see the changes this has brought about with major brands out of Europe and America now emulating Autocom design concepts. Unfortunately, the technology they use to back their communication systems is not anywhere near Autocom standards. Only truly advanced technology, as used by Autocom, will result in performance gains that are without parameters.

What does this mean to the rider? This means that the rider must understand how a true noise-canceling system actually works, which only requires that the instructions are read, understood and followed. These will explain that the positioning of the microphone is important in order to be able to activate and maintain the microphone's active mode properly. Remember, by design a true noise-canceling microphone will look to reject noise, not pick it up. Yes, oxymoronic for sure, but it's exactly why this type and quality of microphone works so well in the motorcycling environment. Properly positioned the microphone will be located in the LOUD SPOT just in front of the mouth. Not achieving this will result in the feeling that there is not enough intercom volume or that the microphone is cutting out. The reality is that these will only occur if the microphone is not positioned correctly. Once you know how to use the microphone and have set the VOX level you are set for noise-free communications and audio under all conditions and at all times.

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If you want the best sound and volume out of the speakers, you need to maximize their positioning. Three things to realize when positioning your speakers: 1) a foam filled container (a.k.a. a helmet) is not the best conductor of sound, 2) the side of your head is, also, not a good conductor of sound and 3) the only way to ensure rider safety (i.e. no helmet modification) is to provide speakers that fit into a helmet. Yes, larger speakers are easier to align but they also require cutting holes into your helmet ... goodbye warranty, goodbye safety.

Speaker Installation Tip 1: Your speakers need to be aligned directly over your ear canals. This seemingly minor point is important. Remember ear canals, not ears, there is a big difference. (Note the star pattern located under the foam cover by feeling the speaker. This should align with your ear canal.) Verify sound quality by hooking up the speakers to the system before installing them into the helmet and holding them up to your ears. Note the sound quality and volume setting you find comfortable as you hold the speakers in your hands. Installed correctly into your helmet, the speakers will sound exactly the same and require no change in the volume setting of your music source. Follow the installation instructions (also available in the Support section of this website) to install the speakers utilizing these tips.

Speaker Installation Tip 2: Autocom systems have features within the design that require proper installation in order to ensure that you achieve maximum performance from your system. For example, speakers positioned 1/4" out of alignment will result in a 50% loss of volume. This includes not only any positions out of alignment with the ear canal(s) but also away from the ear itself. What we have tried to achieve is to eliminate grey areas only leaving black and white. Therefore, the installation is obviously right or obviously wrong. This way it is very clear whether your speakers are positioned correctly or incorrectly.

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Microphone and speaker positioning is the key to getting the best performance out of your system. Please follow these tips (along with your headset instructions) to achieve their positioning.

Positioning the Speakers

KEY TIP Assess the performance of the speakers by holding the speakers over your ears before installation into the helmet. With proper installion, the speakers will sound exactly the same or the positioning requires further fine-tuning.

Setting the VOX

KEY TIP It is important to realize that with Autocom you are using a true noise cancelling system. For most people, perhaps excepting airline pilots and military personnel, this is the first time in their lives they have used such a system. In this it is important to realize that the system is engineered to eliminate any unwanted audio. That includes "misdirected" voice signals, which is why proper microphone alignment is crucial as it is with all true noise cancelling systems.

Follow these steps to understand the principals of microphone alignment for such a system.

Step 1: Set the VOX to about 3/4 counterclockwise. This is a high VOX setting for speeds of typically up to 150+ mph using a full-face helmet.

Step 2: Position the microphone so that it just brushs against your lips and project your voice as if speaking to someone 20 feet away.

Step 3. Discover the "LOUD SPOT". You will discover that by carefully moving the microphone around while speaking you will find a sensitive spot where the volume is loudest and the easiest to operate at this high VOX setting. We call this the 'LOUD SPOT'. Don't worry if the speech breaks up as the VOX is deliberately set very high to help discover the principle.

By finding and using the microphone LOUD SPOT and projecting your voice "through the microphone", you can easily operate the system at a higher VOX setting. This is because the critical LOUD SPOT produces far more volume. Moving the microphone out of alignment with this loud spot will considerably reduce sound volume and microphone sensitivity making it noticeably more difficult to activate the microphone at ANY VOX setting. The temptation may be to turn the VOX clockwise to make it easier to activate the microphone, but you must not do this until you understand, locate and utilize the LOUD SPOT.

Step 4. Proper Usage. Always speak positively "through the microphone" and remember it was designed for use on the bike under noisy conditions. Some first time users may try the intercom in the house or garage, which is not a good representation of the system as it has been designed, tuned and set for high noise settings where you will naturally and subconsciously speak louder. When you are in a quiet location you naturally speak quietly (See FAQ "Why are side tones so important?"), especially when you hear your own voice through the speakers (side tones), this tends to make one speak even quieter until they get used to it. With the VOX set as described above you will find it difficult to keep the microphone(s) on unless you try hard to do so. Don't worry that is a planned part of this exercise. Once you take the intercom out on the bike and put yourself in the noisier conditions, you will naturally speak louder and find the system set to operate properly in this environment.

Now that you understand the principles, you are prepared to properly set the VOX control to suit your riding speed and helmet(s). It is a good idea to set the VOX to a speed of about 20+mph above your normal riding speed. This allows for overtaking, head winds, etc. For example, if you normally ride at 60mph you should test and set up the VOX so that it does not turn the microphone's on at 80+mph. If you ride with a passenger you will need to set the VOX with both rider and passenger headsets in use.

Get to the desired speed (when and were it is safe to do so) and if the microphones switch on without speech you need to set the VOX higher by turning the VOX knob counterclockwise. So, come to a stop and make the required adjustment and try again. Once you have come to a final setting you should be set. (Note: When the VOX knob is flat on a horizontal/plane or parallel to the label it will be set for about 60-70mph. With the flat vertical to the left of the knob it will be set for about 150+mph. Fully clockwise will result in the microphones being on all the time. Therefore, somewhere between horizontally flat and vertical to the left is were the VOX should normally be set to suit typical speeds.)

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Here is the quickest, surest way to get your system VOX setting set correctly for use with VOX-based bike-to-bike communications.

Step 1: Use your system for rider-to-passenger intercom even if you never plan to use this feature again. This will allow you to acclimate yourself to the system's VOX system and operation. A step well worth taking.

Step 2: Set up the first bike and have the first rider on his bike with his system fully set up to talk to the second rider who is using his transceiver as a handheld unit (i.e. not hooked up to the bike or helmet). This will give both riders the chance to recognize the delay between transmit and receive modes of the transceiver. This delay varies from transceiver to transceiver and is usually shorter with higher quality transceivers.

Step 3: Riders should then switch roles in Step 2. Practice makes perfect and it's much easier to practice while close together and not riding and worrying about other things going on.

Step 4: Now you are ready for a test ride with both riders on the road.

Although this short 4 step process may seem elementary, we have found that it will better prepare you for VOX-based bike-to-bike communications and is well worth the effort and time required.

Tip: Consider using the term "over" at the end of each transmission, especially when first getting use to your system, so that you know the system is open to the next communication/person.

Note: An optional PTT/Privacy Switch is available for those who prefer or require PTT bike-to-bike communications. This optional accessory, also, allows the rider and passenger to communicate privately without transmitting over the bike-to-bike transceiver.

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There are several options for bike-to-bike transceivers. Some are good choices, some not so good. For information on specific transceivers, call us at 888-851-4327.

The most common question we receive is, which transceiver is best for me in regards to the Kenwood transceivers we supply. On a more generic front, this question could be, how much power do I need from a transceiver to achieve my communication range/distance goals? The rule of thumb for FM transceivers is 1W = 1 mile of base level communications performance.

We find that you could add a second rule that states that your realistic, day-in, day-out performance range is closer to 2 times the power of the radio, therefore, 1W = 2 miles of real world performance. These rules appear to remain most accurate with higher quality transceivers such as Kenwood.

Tip: Always purchase a transceiver based on the base performance and you will always achieve your range goals.)

Range is range, but what else is there? What else is there and what do you get when you purchase a high quality transceiver like a Kenwood? The answer is kind of like comparing a very fast muscle car to a sleek, high-speed sports car. They both may go the same speed, but the sports car does it more smoothly and with much more usability even at the higher speeds and on all types of roads. With motorsports communication clarity, sound quality and transceiver response is the key to usability. These are what you get when you purchase a higher quality transceiver that you will not get with a lesser unit.

Finally, we have found that more power in a transceiver usually translates into added volume output, and that the delay between transmit and receive modes varies between quality and economy transceivers.

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Yes. GMRS transceiver radios share a portion of their channels (frequencies) with FRS transceivers. Simple check the two manuals and find the channels that match.

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Autocom Systems are designed to accommodate the use of noise-reducing earplugs. We recommend that you use earplugs in the range of 15-20dB attenuation, as this seems to give the best combination of noise-reduction with audio usage. Note that noise-reducing earplug use will require properly aligned speakers to ensure maximum volume at the ear canal.

The interesting part of noise-reducing earplug usage is that often you can hear your communications and audio better with them than without. Seems backwards but it is true as they reduce the annoying frequencies associated with ambient noise, while voice signals come through clearly.

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Yes, in fact we have headset leads specifically designed to accommodate in-ear (monitor) speaker use with current as well as older systems.

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When using in-ear speakers with an Autocom you will immediately notice Autocom's far superior signal-to-noise ratios (good vs. bad noise in the system), which is very important as there is no hiding even minimal noise in a system when using in-ear speakers.

Also Autocom VOX systems automatically and reliably cut off the microphones when not in use and only turn them on with speech, therefore your earplugs retain their hearing protection quality in standby mode as well as when in use. When you do speak you will notice that Autocom's noise-cancellation systems eliminate undesirable helmet noise from the system such that only speech is produced in the speakers.

No other system has this level of noise canceling properties nor do they possess full VOX operation (VOX technology that cuts the microphones off when you are not speaking). While these manufacturers call these systems noise-canceling, their poor performance in the signal-to-noise ratio measures results in considerable helmet noise amplified directly to your ears, and without reliable VOX to cut this in standby mode, the noise is there all the time.

While the resulting amplified noise is perhaps masked by low frequency range speakers you can use noise-reducing earplugs to help decrease the amplified helmet noise's volume. With in-ear speakers, the noise is amplified directly to your eardrums; that's right, right inside the protective plugs. In addition to being undesirable and far more fatiguing in use, this makes the use of a protective earplug pointless, as the amplified noise inside the protective earplug would be higher than the ambient noise outside the earplug due to the system's amplification.

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Any cellular phone that accepts a standard 2.5mm headset pin can be used with an Autocom. Phones that do not have a 2.5mm socket will require a headset adapter.

We carry adapters for Nokia and Ericcson/Sony-Ericcson cellular phones as well as the Motorola RAZR and SLVR and Palm Tungsten W and Handspring Treos as the required adapters are different from those supplied by the phone's manufacturer. For other cellular phone makes and models that require an adapter, contact your cellular phone supplier.

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You found a lead that looks just like an Autocom lead, right? You are not the first, and sure not to be the last to think this way, so what is the difference and why is this one so cheap?

To begin with, you've heard the saying "beauty is only skin deep." Well, that is what you are seeing ... the superficial features of the lead. It's like that "lightly used" bike that looks like a good deal at a great price and then you get it home and find out all the things that are not so beautiful about it.

The first thing to consider in differentiating the leads is the difference in the environments for which they are built. Most cables simply are plugged in and left to lie there with limited movement or unplugging, and except for maybe a little dust or spilt coffee (which will cause a problem if it lands in the wrong place) has little to be concerned about environmentally. And as you would expect, they are manufactured to suit these environmental needs, but not over engineered as to price them out the market for this type of product.

Our cables, on the other hand, are subjected to a totally different environment and, therefore, standards. Rain and moisture; heat; road salt and grime; chemicals; the constant plugging and unplugging and twisting and pulling and tugging; and the occasional dropped helmet and don't forget that time you forgot to unhook it and walked away. This requires not only much better components and construction, but much better and much more engineering to make sure the plugs are tight enough not to come apart but loose enough to release in an emergency; that they do not corrode or deteriorate given the weather; that the wires within the cable do not break from too much movement or drape due to the extra weight and stress pulling on them; and that the pins do not bend when you misalign the plugs...just to mention a few things to consider.

Also, in order to get the most out of the sound quality your unit is capable of we use copper wire, which compared to the aluminum wire used in the other lead wire is a significant upgrade.

Sheathing
All of our cables are encased in sheathing of copper wire to protect them from interference from RF and the bike's electrical system. On the opposite end of the spectrum, the cheap cable has a simple foil wrap that is not going to help you much at all. When you take into account the fact that RF problems are not uncommon this can be a big difference. Remember, also, that RF problems at times come and go and if you cut corners today you could end up with one tomorrow.

Insulation
If you look at our cable you will notice it looks sturdy and that is because it is, in fact, very durable and extremely tough especially in comparison to a generic cable. This is partly due to the fact that it has an extra thick rubber jacket (insulation) that protects the wires in the cable that is a full 1mm thick. This gives the enclosed wires a much better chance of survivng if you accidentally pinch the cable. Sounds mundane until you do it once or twice and you have to put your trip on hold to find a new lead.

Plugs and Sockets
Here is what you get with your Autocom lead. Each plug or socket features a one-piece molded construction with integral (one-piece) shell, internal strain relief for the wire, stress relief at the base of the plug externally, solid pins, corrosion-resistant nickel plating and a specialized male / female design on the plug jacket with a secondary locking 'lip' to prevent water entry. Most of which you will never find in an inexpensive lead.

Industrial Quality Construction
As eluded to above, your Autocom lead is made to last in this punishing environment with such considerations as components selected specifically for the purpose, design principles addressing the rigors of the likely stress and construction techniques that work to maximize durability by minimizing stress to the lead components.

One final word...
We have seen numerous situatons where a third party component has been integrated into a system only to cause problems. Chief among these are RF/ignition noise pick up and a lack of durability simply because they are not being used for the purpose they were intended. We have seen the aggravation this causes the rider when the problems start, because of this "cheaper" component and they cannot figure out why. We, also, know the feeling ourselves thinking the whole situation could have been avoided if only the right lead had been used.

Yes, you can buy some cheaper components that appear on the outside to be similar, but you get what you pay for and it won't take long for you to figure it out. In this case, there is a big difference between cheap and less expensive.

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